2022年8月、3年ぶりに開催された「青森ねぶた祭り」に足を運んだ。2018年以来、2回目のねぶた祭りであるが、前回は雨に打たれる中での鑑賞だったので、初めてゆっくりと鑑賞することが叶った。
※詳しい情報はこちら：青森ねぶた祭実行委員会HPを参照 https://www.nebuta.jp
In August 2022, I visited the Aomori Nebuta Festival, which was held for the first time in three years. This is my second time attending the Nebuta Festival since 2018, but last time, unfortunately, I had to watch it in the rain, but this time I was blessed with good weather and had a great time.
*Click here for more information: See the Aomori Nebuta Festival Executive Committee website (above).You can get the latest information.
今旅の青森ねぶた祭りは、金土の２回鑑賞したが両日とも快晴といった好コンディションであり、大型ねぶたも累計34台ほど見られた。ちなみに「ねぶた祭り」は青森市の祭りで「ねぷた祭り」は弘前市の祭り。
I went to the Aomori Nebuta Festival twice on this trip, on Friday and Saturday, and the conditions were perfect with clear skies on both days, and I saw a total of 34 large Nebuta.By the way, “Nebuta Festival'' is a festival in Aomori City, and “Neputa Festival'' is a festival in Hirosaki City.
私の初日となる5日(金)は新町商店街の新町通りで鑑賞した。友人・関係者様のお陰で、スタート付近の特等席から鑑賞でき、大変ありがたく思っている。
On my first day, the 5th (Friday), I went to see it on Shinmachi Street in the Shinmachi shopping district. Thanks to everyone involved, I was able to watch it from special seats near the start, and I was very grateful.
この席は、基本的に通りに面したお店のご贔屓先や住民などの特権席となっており、販売していないため東京人は簡単には座れない。写真は、今回の招待いただいた店とは異なるが、このように席に名前が付され用意される。大変貴重な経験であり、お店の商品を買ってあげることがせめてものマナー。ビールやつまみを購入し、祭りに備える。
These seats are basically reserved for patrons of shops facing the street or residents, and as they are not sold, a person lives in Tokyo cannot easily sit in them. The photo is different from the restaurant I was invited to this time, but the seats are named and prepared like this. It's a very valuable experience, and the least you can do is buy something from the store. Buy beer and snacks and prepare for the festival.
運行は日にちによって若干の違いがあり、金曜は出世大太鼓がトップバッターであった。
The schedule differs slightly depending on the day, and on Fridays, “Shusse Odaiko” (apparently the largest “taiko” (it means drums in Japanese) in Japan in 1973) was the top performer.
それが過ぎ去ると様々な「ねぶた」や「ハネト（祭りの踊り手）」、「囃子方」などが何度も席前を通り過ぎていく。途中、青森山田の筋肉隆々な高校生がねぶたを押していたり、TVの中継しているねぶたが来たりと様々な場面に出会せる。
As it passed various "Nebuta", "Haneto (festival dancers)", "Hayashi-kata (people who play the rhythm)", etc. in front of my seat many times. Along the way, you could see many scenes, including muscular high school students from Aomori Yamada High School pushing Nebuta floats and TV broadcast crews.
途中で可愛い「化人(ばけと：仮装して祭りを盛り上げる役)」も現れた。金魚ねぶたも向かってきた。
Among them, there was also cute little "Baketo (a person who cosplays to liven up the festival)".“Kingyo (it means Goldfish) Nebuta” also came towards my seat.
翌6日(土)は、販売されている国道4号線(大樹生命青森ビルの向かい付近)の観覧席から鑑賞。有料の観覧席以外にも交差点など無料で見られる場所はあるが、これらは時間前から場所取りのため多くの人が押しかけているので、事前準備が重要となる。
The next day, the 6th (Saturday), I watched it from the viewing seats on National Route 4 (near the opposite side of Taiki Seimei Aomori Building) where it had sold. You can view it for free from the roadside, such as at intersections, but there is a lot of competition to get a spot. Therefore, it is better to pay to see it if possible.
二日目は、ねぶた鑑賞の前に廣田神社に足を伸ばした。廣田神社は、日本唯一病厄除けの守護神として有名であり、その歴史も平安時代に由来があるなど由緒ただしき神社だ。国道４号線、青森地方裁判所前から一本横道に入ったところ（裁判所や青い森公園とは反対方向）に大鳥居があり、そこにたくさんの金魚ねぶたが吊り下げられていた。
On the second day, I first visited Hirota Shrine before watching the Nebuta festival. Hirota Shrine is famous as Japan's only guardian deity to ward off illness and misfortune, and its history dates back to the Heian period (10th century). One side street from in front of the Aomori District Court on National Route 4 (in the opposite direction from the courthouse and Aomori Park), there was a large torii gate with many “Goldfish Nebuta” hanging there.
金魚の下を通り抜けると手水舎があり、今度はたくさんの青りんごが浮かんでいた。小さくて青いりんごが水に浮かんでいる光景は涼しげで夕刻とはいえ夏の暑さ続いている中で視覚的に心地よさを与えてくれた。さらに付近には紫陽花綺麗に咲き誇っており、東京からきた人間としては８月に綺麗に咲く紫陽花に驚いた。
After passing under the goldfish, there was a watering hole, and this time there were many green apples floating in the water. It was still hot in the evening, but the apples floating in the water looked cool. Furthermore, there were beautiful hydrangeas in full bloom nearby, and as someone who came from Tokyo, I was surprised to see hydrangeas blooming so beautifully in August.
本殿で参拝する際、女性のハネトの先客がいた。祭りの雰囲気を高めてくれるので、ぜひ祭り前に参拝した方が良いと思う。
When I prayed at the main shrine, there was a female haneto guest in front of me. I think it's best to visit the shrine before the festival, as it enhances the atmosphere of the festival.
観覧席からの鑑賞は、新町通りと違い道幅が広いため、ねぶたとの近さ、迫力は新町通りに劣ってしまうが、反対に通りを広く使えるので、ねぶたがダイナミックに動き、躍動感を感じられる。もちろん好みは分かれるところ。
Viewing from the seats is different from Shinmachi-dori because the road is wider, so the proximity and impact of the Nebuta is inferior to Shinmachi-dori, but on the other hand, since you can use a wider street, you can see the Nebuta moving dynamically and feel the dynamism. It will be done. Of course, tastes differ.
この日、国道でねぶたを見ていると「カラスハネト（ねぶたの進行を妨害する迷惑行為を行うハネト）」が現れた。カラスの発現と同時に警察も勢いよく飛び出てくる。この一瞬の出来事はねぶたとは違った迫力もあった（一瞬だったので写真も撮れなかった。写真はねぶた。）。迷惑行為ではあるもののカラスと呼称が付いているところが愛くるしい。
On this day, while I was watching the Nebuta at the bleachers on National Route 4, a “Karasu Haneto (a haneto who causes nuisance and obstructs the progress of the nebuta, and Karasu means “a crow” in Japanese)” appeared. As soon as the crows appeared, the police rushed out. This momentary event had a different impact than Nebuta (It was only for a moment, so I couldn't take a photo. The photos are of Nebuta.). Although these acts are a nuisance, it is endearing that Aomori residents have a fondness for the festival, which they call Karasu Haneto.
この日の運行は受賞ねぶたが決まっているので、ラストに向けて盛り上がりがさらに加熱する。最後から3番目の市長賞、北村麻子さんのねぶた(あおもり市民ねぶた実行委員会)。
The winning Nebuta has been decided on this day, so the excitement gets even more intense towards the end. Mayor's Award: Asako Kitamura's Nebuta (Aomori Citizens Nebuta Executive Committee).
最後から2番目の知事賞、竹浪比呂央さんのねぶた(JRねぶた実行プロジェクト)。
Governor's Award, Hiro Takenami's Nebuta (JR Nebuta Implementation Project).
そして、2022年のねぶた大賞となった竹浪比呂央さんのねぶた(青森菱友会)。竹浪さんは、知事賞のねぶたともに2つの栄えある賞を受賞するとはすごい。
And Hiro Takenami's Nebuta (Aomori Ryoyukai) won the 2022 Nebuta Grand Prize. It is amazing that Mr. Takenami has won two prestigious awards, along with the Governor's Award for Nebuta.
運行の最後は、ゴミ拾い隊などが最後尾について、通りをきれいにしていた。ボランテイア含め祭りに関わる全ての人が礼儀正しかった。（写真は新町通り）
At the end, the streets were cleaned by garbage pick-up teams. Everyone involved in the festival, including the volunteers, was polite. (Photo: Shinmachi Street)
両日とも雨に打たれず快晴の下、ねぶたを席に座って見られたのは本当にありがたい。ましてやどちらの席も最前列と運の良さもあった。ハネトの鈴を拾うと「幸運」になると謂れがあるらしいが、それも手を伸ばせば届きそうな距離で見られた。
I was really happy to be able to sit and watch the Nebuta on both days under clear skies and no rain. Moreover, I was lucky to have a front row seat for both. It is said that picking up a Haneto bell will bring you good luck, and I saw it so close that I could almost reach it if I stretched out my hand.
他方、次回ねぶた祭りを訪れる際のハードルが上がっている。正直、これ以上良い席は正直望めないと痛感しているので、次回は地元住民が多く見守る道端から見ようと思う。今年2022年の総観客数は約100万人とコロナ前より少ないらしい。昔のように制限が何もない時代のハネトの勢い、より本気のねぶたに期待したい。
On the other hand, the hurdles for visiting the Nebuta Festival next time have been raised. To be honest, I'm keenly aware that I couldn't have asked for a better seat, so next time I think I'll watch from the roadside, where many locals watch. The total number of spectators this year in 2022 is estimated to be around 1 million, which is lower than before the coronavirus. I'm looking forward to seeing more serious Nebuta, with the momentum of Haneto in the olden days when there were no restrictions.
ちなみに写真は2020年のクラウドファンディングによって製作された特別ねぶた。ねぶた師14名による合作。コロナ禍で中止となった際、ねぶた師を支援する意味意味合いもあって制作された。
The photo shows a special Nebuta created through crowdfunding in 2020. A collaboration between 14 Nebuta masters. It was created to support the them when it was canceled due to the coronavirus pandemic.
とはいえ、久しぶりに東北の夏を感じた、良い祭りだった。
However, it was a nice festival that made me feel summer in Tohoku for the first time in a while.
参考までに交通規制(2022年)の案内を記載。
URL: https://www.nebuta.jp/info/docs/2022Nebuta_naka1.pdf
交通規制以上に、観光客は席ないし場所の確保の方が重要かと思われる。住民のねぶた愛も強く、沿道も多くの人ですぐ埋まってしまう。
Information on traffic regulations (2022) is included for your reference.I think it is more important for tourists to secure a seat or a place than traffic regulations. The residents love Nebuta so much that the roadsides quickly fill up with people.
また、お手洗い問題も、女性の方は大変。今回、国道4号線沿いにある市役所のお手洗いが開放されていたが、祭り前の混雑は想像通りの人の列。とはいえ、一度祭りが始まると、2時間近くねぶたが練り歩くので、ご注意を。
Also, the problem of using the restroom is more difficult for women. This time, the restrooms at City Hall along National Route 4 were open, but the pre-festival crowd was as crowded as you might imagine. However, please be aware that once the festival begins, the Nebuta floats will be paraded for nearly two hours.
