My first visit to Oki island.
出雲空港からATRで約20分の飛行を終えれば隠岐諸島の島後「隠岐の島町」。空港への着陸のアプローチが絶景、崖上に滑走路があるため崖に激突するかのダイナミズな錯覚を感じての着陸。
After a 20-minute flight on the ATR from Izumo Airport, I arrived at Okinoshima Town, one of the Oki Islands. The approach to the airport is spectacular, and since the runway is on a cliff, you get the illusion of dynamic impact as you land.
島内は隠岐レンタリースで借りた軽自動車で回る。空港の到着ゲート前でのレンタカー受付が完了したら「車は空港駐車場に停めてあるから」とチェックもなしに自由に。帰りも車を駐車場に停めてダッシュボードに鍵をしまえばOKという田舎スタイルで斬新なレンタル方法。一種のカーシェアリング。そのため、距離精算による返却ができず、満タンにして返す必要があるから普段、距離精算のユーザーにとっては少し不便(西郷大橋の手前国道485号にENEOSがある：カードOK）。
I traveled around the island in a small car rented from Oki Rental Lease. Once the rental car reception is completed in front of the arrival gate at the airport, I was free to drive without any checking since the car was parked in the airport car park. On the way back, I just parked the car in the airport car park and put the key in the dashboard, which is a unique country-style rental method. It's a kind of car sharing. Therefore, I couldn't return the car by paying for the mileage, and I had to return it with a full tank, which is a bit inconvenient for those who usually pay for the mileage (there is an ENEOS on Route 485 just before the Saigo Ohashi Bridge: cards accepted).
空港から車を走らせると、早く海が見たい衝動に駆られ西郷大橋を渡らず今津地区に。
Driving from the airport, I was so eager to see the ocean that I headed straight for the Imazu area without crossing the Saigo Bridge.
そのまま県道43号を東へ、島の中心部西郷地区に昼ご飯の魚を食べに。とはいえ、まだオープンまで時間もあったので中心部をプラプラと散策。車はフェリーターミナルの駐車場に。1時間以内だと無料になるのでちょうど良く利用させてもらい、中心部の目貫通りへ。まだ昼前でもあり、静か。
I headed east on Prefectural Route 43 to the Saigo area in the center of the island to eat fish for lunch. However, there was still some time before opening, so I just wandered around the center. I parked my car in the ferry terminal parking lot. Parking is free for up to an hour, so I took advantage of that and headed to Menuki street (it means main street) in the center. It was still before noon and it was quiet.
散策途中で、「愛の橋」を発見。ところが、老朽化のためフェンスと鍵がかかって通行禁止。汝の隣人を愛することが難しくなった今日に一抹の寂しさを覚えた。
During the walk, I discovered the Bridge of Love. However, due to deterioration, it was fenced off and locked, and no one was allowed to cross. I felt a little lonely in the modern world where it has become difficult to love your neighbor.
そのまま八尾川を沿いを下り、水祖(みおや)神社に。
I continued walking down the Yao River towards Mioya Shrine.
最後は、車を停めているフェリーターミナルへ。
Finally, I headed to the ferry terminal where I had parked my car.
訪問時はフェリーの出到着もなく、静かな空間と化していた。ふと立ち寄った売店にあった隠岐汽船のクリアファイルを気に入って購入した。施設内では若い女性がPCでテレカンをしていたりと数少ない利用客が思い思いの時を過ごしていた。
When I visited, there were no ferries arriving or departing, and the place was quiet. I happened to stop by a shop and bought a clear file of Oki Kisen that caught my eye. Inside the terminal, a young woman was doing teleconference work on her PC, and the few passengers were spending their time as they pleased.
むしろ驚いたのは、隣接する観光協会。同施設は新しく、内装の木調が上品かつ綺麗。電源もあるデスクがあって、充電しながら情報収集することも可能だし、非常に快適。
What surprised me more was the adjacent tourist information center. The facility is new, with a classy and beautiful wooden interior. There are desks with power outlets, so you can charge your phone while gathering information, making it very comfortable.
ここから電動自転車(E -BIKEサービス https://e-oki.net/e-bike/)を借りて島を巡ることもできる。格好いいバイクだったが、島全体が起伏のある道が多いので覚悟が必要そう。
You can also rent an electric bicycle (E-BIKE service) from here and travel around the island. It was a cool bike, but the whole island has many hilly roads so you need to be prepared.
中心街の西郷地区をあとに県道47号を東進し、途中にある津ノ目島や沖津ノ目島を右目に車を走らせる。大久地区を過ぎるとアップダウンのある道となり同時に道幅も狭くなる。所々、対向車は来ないで欲しいと思うような道だ。そうこうすると布施地区に到着。ここから県道47号から国道485号になり、少しだけ走って、春日川沿いの細い山道に。約6kmの対向車に怯える運転を抜けると強烈なパワースポット岩倉の乳房杉。
Leaving the Saigo area in the city center, I headed east on Prefectural Route 47, passing Tsunomejima and Okitsunomejima on the right. After passing the Okusa area, the road becomes up and down and narrows at the same time. In places, it's a road where you wish oncoming cars wouldn't come. After all that, I arrived in the Fuse area. From here, Prefectural Route 47 turns into National Route 485, and after a short drive, I entered a narrow mountain road along the Kasuga River. After about 6km of driving in fear of oncoming cars, I arrived at Iwakura Chibusa Cedar, a powerful power spot.
圧倒的な緑と杉の存在感。 駐車場はなく、突然に現れるので道に止めるしかないが、当日は車も少なかったので問題ない。こんな感じで車を停めた。通り過ぎてしまいことに注意を。
The overwhelming presence of greenery and cedars.There is no parking lot, and it appears suddenly, so you have to park on the road, but there were few cars on the day, so it wasn't a problem. I parked my car like this. Be careful not to pass it by.
本来、西郷地区からは銚子川沿いを走る県道316号からくるのがセオリーであるが、近年の豪雨の影響により通行禁止となっており、布施地区から訪問。ただ、途中写真を撮りながらでも西郷からは１時間程度で行けるので道の狭さ以外のストレスはない。
The theory is that you should come from the Saigo area via Prefectural Route 316 that runs along the Choshi River, but due to the heavy rains in recent years, it is closed to traffic, so I visited from the Fuse area. However, even if you stop to take photos along the way, it takes about an hour from Saigo, so there is no stress other than the narrowness of the road.
杉の後は、中村海水浴場。天気が今ひとつ快晴ではなく、晴れているようで雲が多い。そのような下では見たい青色の発色ではなかったが、それでも十分に綺麗な色味を理解できた。
After the cedars, I went to Nakamura Beach. The weather wasn't particularly clear, and although it looked sunny, there were a lot of clouds. Under such conditions, the blue color was not as vivid as I had hoped, but I was still able to appreciate the beautiful color.
そして、再び国道485号を走り、東回りで隠岐国の一宮である水若酢神社(みずわかすじんじゃ)へ。
Then, I drove back along National Route 485, going east to Mizuwakasu Shrine, the Ichinomiya of Oki Province.
その歴史は平安時代からとも、江戸時代からとも言われており定かでないが、本殿は非常に立派であった。隠岐造と言って、大社と春日と神明の各造りの合わせ技らしく本土では見られない特殊な造りらしい。もっと勉強してから来ればよかった。
Its history is said to date back to either the Heian or Edo period, but it is unclear, but the main shrine “Honden” was very impressive. It is a unique structure called Oki-zukuri, which is a combination of Taisha, Kasuga, and Shinmei-zukuri styles that cannot be seen on the mainland. I wish I had studied more before coming here.
次は、私は神社すぐの県道44号を西海岸沿いに南下し、境内に滝のある壇鏡神社を訪れた。県道から入った細い道は5kmほど対向車に怯える運転手泣かせの細い道であった。やっとの思いで駐車場に着くと、神社本殿までは那久川沿いを少し歩くのだが、人のいない鬱蒼とした森の中を雲の多い薄暗い昼下がりは少し怖く感じた。
Next, I headed south along the west coast on Prefectural Route 44, just past the shrine, to visit Dangyo Shrine, which has a waterfall within its grounds. The narrow road that leads off the prefectural road was about 5km long, making drivers cry in fear of oncoming traffic. After finally reaching the parking lot, I walked a short distance along the Naku River to the main shrine, but in the gloomy, cloudy afternoon through the deserted dense forest, it felt a little scary.
豪雨のせいか木も倒れている。
Trees had also fallen, probably due to the heavy rain.
10分もかからないで神社に到着。
I arrived at the shrine from the parking lot in less than 10 minutes.
壇鏡神社にある壇鏡の滝は裏から、滝が見られる。なので、ウラミ滝とも呼ばれるらしい。40mの落差だがもっとあるように思えた気持ちの良い滝であった。ただ、裏から空を見上げたとき、青空だったらもっと良かったな、とふと思ってしまった。
The Dangyo Falls at Dangyo Shrine can be seen from behind. That's why it's also called Urami Falls. It's a pleasant waterfall with a drop of 40m, but it seemed even higher. However, when I looked up at the sky from behind, I couldn't help but think that it would have been even better if the sky had been blue.
夕日を油井前の洲見たかったのだが、駐車場がないのか車を止められず断念。代わりに那久岬に行き先を変更。その途中に位置する油井の池へ。壇鏡神社に行くために通った県道44号を北進にやや戻る。火口湖として、直径が200m超らしいが、背景の壮大さに驚き。中央部には浮島がある。やや三宅島で見た大路池に似ていた。
I wanted to see the sunset at Yuimaeno-su (sandbank), but there was no parking lot, so I gave up. Instead, I changed my destination to Nagu Misaki (Cape Nagu). On the way there, I went to Yui Pond. I went back a little north on Prefectural Route 44, which I had taken to go to Dangyo Shrine. As a crater lake, it is said to be over 200m in diameter, but I was surprised by the grandeur of the background. There is a floating island in the center. It looked a bit like Tairo Pond that I had seen on Miyake Island.
ここは適度に雲や霧があった方が絵になり、良かった。少し東山魁夷的な世界観だった。
It would have been better if there were clouds and fog here, as it would have been more picturesque. It had a worldview somewhat reminiscent of Kaii Higashiyama's.
そして、いよいよ夕日を見るために那久岬へ。駐車場にはトイレもあって、風光明媚なスポット。遠く先には白い灯台も見える。
Finally, we headed to Cape Nagu to watch the sunset. There was a toilet in the parking lot, and it was a scenic spot. You could see the white lighthouse in the distance.
そこまで行くには、高低差もあってなかなか大変そうであった、自分はカラスが多く途中で断念した。
It looked like it would be quite a challenge to get there, with the difference in elevation, and I gave up halfway because there were so many crows.
さらに奥に進むと牛も放牧されていたので、道を歩きながら牛と対峙するのも夕方一人だと怖く感じる。駐車場にある白い旧燈台が、地元住民とのストーリーも含め美しい。新旧の灯台とともに。
Going further in, there were cows grazing, and it was scary to walk along the road and come face to face with the cows alone in the evening. The old white lighthouse in the parking lot is beautiful, along with the story of the local residents. Along with the old and new lighthouses.
隠岐はジオパークに位置するので本当に海が綺麗だった。なので、奄美大島同様、もっと晴れていればというのが正直なところ。またロウソク島や油井前の洲など通行止め等で行けない箇所もあった。反対に、写真にあげていないだけで他にも多くのスポットに行けた。コンビニはもちろんだが、スーパーも見当たらず西郷地区にあるドラッグストアが大事な補給箇所であった。そんな不便さもたまには良いな、と思う。今回は島後だけであったが、もっと飛行機の時間と調整した島前とのフェリーなどとの連携を図れればもっと隠岐観光がしやすいのにな…
Oki is located in a geopark, so the sea was really beautiful. To be honest, I wish it was sunny, just like Amami Oshima. There were also places that I couldn't go to, such as Candle Island and Yuimaeno-su, due to road closures. On the other hand, I was able to go to many other spots that are not shown in the photos. There were no convenience stores, let alone supermarkets, so the drugstore in the Saigo area was an important place to get supplies. I think that such inconveniences are good sometimes. This time I only went to Dogo, but if they could coordinate the flight times with ferries to Dozen, it would be easier to visit Oki...
【番外編】[Extra Edition]
昼ごはんは西郷地区にある「味乃蔵」にした。11時から開店しているので、出雲からの飛行機の到着時間から一観光してちょうど良い。駐車場も6台であるが、公道に対し斜め駐車となるので奥に停めた際に手前に他の車が駐車されると出入りがなかなか難儀しそうだ。お刺身定食(￥1,760)を注文。
For lunch, I went to "Ajinokura" in the Saigo area. It opens at 11:00, so it's perfect for sightseeing after the plane from Izumo arrives. There is parking for six cars, but the parking is diagonal to the public road, so if you park at the back and another car parks in front of you, it will be difficult to get in and out.I ordered a sashimi teshoku (sashimi set) meal (1,760 yen).
魚は4種類。マグロとバイ貝、飛び魚、鯵。貝の食感、飛び魚の脂乗りなど絶妙だった。もう少し数を食べたかったが仕方ない。地味に筍も美味しい。
There were four types of fish. Tuna, clams (Baigai), flying fish, and horse mackerel. The texture of the clams and the fat of the flying fish were exquisite. I wanted to eat more, but it can't be helped. The bamboo shoots were also delicious.
昼ごはん②も食べた。隠岐そばを食べに五箇創生舘にある「喫茶 木かげ」へ。入店した際、韓国ドラマを見ていた店員さん二人には申し訳なく思うが作ってもらった。めかぶ入りのそばに。めかぶの香りが強すぎて、あごの香りもするが、めかぶが強かった。さっぱりと頂きました。
I also had lunch ②. I went to "Kissa Kokage" in Goka Souseikan to eat Oki soba. I felt bad for the two staff members who were watching a Korean drama when I entered the store, but they made it for me.I ordered soba with mekabu. The mekabu aroma was too strong, and although I could also smell the flying fish, the mekabu was the strongest.
