Off to Nikko.
今冬、日光東照宮に行ったが・・・
参拝客は少なかった。そんな人の少ない東照宮もまた魅力的だ。
I went to Nikko Toshogu Shrine this winter (2021), but there were few visitors. It was very moving to see Toshogu Shrine with few people.
日光宇都宮道路は土曜日12時頃なのに、ほとんど車もなく順調に日光ICを降り、国道119号線に合流。途中、日光の老舗和菓子「日昇堂」からの派生ブランド「TENTO」が右手に、その後すぐ左手に重要文化財の神橋と目移りで忙しい。いまや舗装された道により楽々と大谷川を渡れるが、日光山を開山する勝道上人を思うと神橋の有り難みが、あるかもしれない。なお、神橋は「しんきょう」と呼ぶらしい。恥ずかしながら「かみばし」と思っていた。
TENTO：https://tentochocolate.com/home#access
Despite it being around noon on a Saturday, there were hardly any cars on the Nikko Utsunomiya Road, and I was able to get off at Nikko Interchange without any problems and join National Route 119. On the way, I saw "TENTO," a brand derived from Nikko's long-established Japanese confectionery shop "Nisshodo," on my right. Soon after, I was distracted by the “Shinkyo Bridge”, an important cultural property, on my left. Nowadays, the paved road (Route 119) makes us easy to cross the Otani River, but when I think of Shodo Shonin, the founder of Mount Nikko, I think I am grateful for the Shinkyo Bridge. By the way, it seems that the Shinkyo Bridge is called "Shinkyo." I'm ashamed to say that I thought it was "Kamibashi (it means God bridge."
今回、駐車したところは、日光山輪王寺の第二駐車場。東照宮のそれと思って間違ったが、500円/日と100円安かったので結果、得した気分。地図で見ると、ほぼ同じ場所にあるから要注意、小生は左にハンドルを切った結果が上記の通り。でも、せっかくなので輪王寺の境内を通り、参道に出た。
This time, I parked at the second parking lot of Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple. I had mistaken it for the parking lot of Toshogu Shrine, but it was 500 yen/day, 100 yen cheaper than the parking lot of Toshogu Shrine, so I felt like I got a good deal. If you look at the map, you'll see that it's in almost the same place, so be careful. However, since I was there, I went through the grounds of Rinnoji Temple and came out to the approach to the temple.
参道にはウグイスの笛を60年以上も売っている丸茂（まるも）さんもいらした。
こんなご時世だって、関係ない。だけど、小雨がふり出したので小生が帰る際にはいなかった。それにしてもここまで参拝客が少ない東照宮は貴重かもしれない。20年ぶりに訪れたので、前回の人出は覚えてないが・・・
On the approach to the shrine, there was Marumo, who has been selling Japanese bush warbler flutes for over 60 years. It doesn't matter in these times. However, it started to rain lightly, so he wasn't there when I left. Even so, it may be rare to see Toshogu Shrine with so few visitors. It's been 20 years since I last visited, so I don't remember how crowded it was last time...
ご承知の通り、世界遺産である日光東照宮は、徳川家康公の墓だ。1617年に静岡の久能山（⇨）から祀られ、400年以上ものあいだ鎮座している。御宝塔のある奥宮までは207段あり、1965年までは一般公開されていなかったとのことで、聖域となる。同時に、パワースポットらしい。
As you know, Nikko Toshogu Shrine is the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu. It was enshrined in 1617 from Mount Kuno in Shizuoka (⇨) and has been there for over 400 years. There are 207 steps to the inner shrine “Okumiya” where the pagoda is located, and it was not open to the public until 1965, making it a sacred area. At the same time, it seems to be a power spot.
道程、鎮守の森にある石畳や階段の静けさ、曇天の空模様により、神秘性を強く感じた。訂正しようパワースポットらしい、ではなく間違いなくパワースポットだ。それも奥院だけでなく、その道すがらの全域が。リフレッシュされた気分となること間違いなし。
The quietness of the stone pavement and steps in the shrine forest, and the cloudy sky made me feel a strong sense of mysticism. Let me correct that, it's not just a power spot, it's definitely a power spot. And not just the inner shrine, but the whole area along the way. You're sure to feel refreshed.
ほか、見どころの一つの新厩舎の猿。猿がご神馬を守っているとのことで８匹の猿がいる。ただ、動きは人間の風刺を謳っており、あの３猿：見ない猿に言わない猿、そして聞かない猿、もしっかりといた。
Another highlight is the monkeys in the new stables. There are eight monkeys, who are said to be guarding the sacred horse. However, their movements are a satire of humans, and the three monkeys: "sees no evil," another "speaks no evil," and the last "hears no evil" were also there.
伝説の名工•左甚五郎（ひだりじんごろう）作の猫「眠り猫」もお休みになさって、奥宮へはすんなりと抜けられる。ケルベロスの真逆みたいなもんだ。
The sleeping cat “Nemuri neko” made by the legendary master craftsman Hidari Jingoro is also taking a rest, and you can easily pass through to the inner shrine. It's like the exact opposite of Cerberus the guard dog.
煌びやかな陽明門は、平成の大修理が済んでいたこともあり、さらに輝いていた。鬼瓦の迫力や聖人賢人などの彫刻の緻密さに心奪われる。曇り空に金色はよく映える。
The glittering Yomeimon Gate was even more dazzling after undergoing major repairs in the Heisei era. I was fascinated by the power of the onigawara tiles and the intricate carvings of saints and wise men. The gold color stood out against the cloudy sky.
世界文化遺産であってSuica•PASMOなどで拝観料1,300円が支払えたのは大変便利であった。
As it is a World Heritage Site, it was very convenient to be able to pay the admission fee of 1,300 yen with Suica or PASMO (transportation IC card).
そのまま足を伸ばして、日光二荒山神社へも。
御神体山が二荒山（＝男体山）とのことで、日光東照宮の遥か前に開山。
I also visited the neighboring Nikko Futarasan Shrine. This shrine's sacred mountain is Mount Futara (= Mount Nantai), and it is a historic shrine that was founded long before Nikko Toshogu Shrine.
良縁ひしめく霊場にて、夫婦杉を一人で愛でる。（写真は親子杉）
In this sacred place where good matches are said to occur, I admired “Meoto Cedar trees (it means the married cedars)” by myself.（Photo: Oyako Cedar trees (it means the parent and child cedars)
【おまけ】
帰京の際、せっかくだからと宇都宮ギョウザを食べに宇都宮市内に寄った。どこのギョウザも食べたかったので、一堂にギョウザが介している来らっせ本店へ。「宇都宮みんみん」や「めんめん」など有名店が常設で5店舗。日替わりゾーンに行ったらさらに27種類も楽しめる。
今回は、めんめんとぎょうざの龍門を食し、楽しんだ。いずれも6個入りで、320円、390円と味の比較もできて少量で満足。写真は、龍門の餃子（竜門焼餃子320円）。
来らっせ：https://www.gyozakai.com/kirasse/
On my way back to Tokyo, I decided to stop by Utsunomiya city to eat Utsunomiya gyoza. I wanted to try all the gyoza, so I went to Kirasse main store, which has all the gyoza in one place. There are five permanent stores, including famous restaurants such as "Utsunomiya Minmin" and "Menmen". If you go to the daily specials zone, you can enjoy an additional 27 types.
This time, I tried the Menmen and Gyoza Ryumon, which I enjoyed. Both came in packs of six, and were priced at 320 yen and 390 yen, so you could compare the taste and it was satisfying with just a small amount. The photo shows Ryumon's gyoza.
ちなみに行きは東北自動車道の佐野SAで佐野ラーメンを食べた。サッパリすぎるくらいの醤油味で個人的には物足りなさを感じたが、食べたくなる不思議。
By the way, on the way to Nikko, I ate Sano ramen at Sano SA on the Tohoku Expressway. The soy sauce flavor was too light for my taste, but strangely enough I still wanted to eat it.
